DUCTMASTER III

Unpacking Instructions
Safety Precautions
Set-Up and Testing
Duct Cleaning
Dryer Duct Cleaning
Troubleshooting Guide
Maintenance
Pancake Style Brushes
Brush Motor Replacement
Limited Warranty

A) Air-Care DuctMaster III w 1.5” Hose 1 ½” X 35’ Brush and Motor Assembly. Includes 12” Pancake-Style Brush
B) 4th Stage HEPA, 13-3/8” x 17-5/8 x 3-1/8”
C) 3rd Stage 13” x 15” x 1” Electra Silver Washable filter
D) Universal Remote

Dryer Vent Cleaning Kit

E) Drill Powered Dryer Duct Cable (5/16’ core x20 ft) with 4” Brush
F) Adapter – 3 inch I.D. Hose to 2 Inch Tools
G) Nest Claw
H) 3” x 4” x 3” “Y” Adapter
I) Lint Brush, 24”
J ) Dryer Exhaust Flap Clip

DuctMaster/Vent Vac Accessory Kit

K) Equipment Bag
L) Dual Stage 15 Gal. Bag Filter (5/pkg.)
M) Hose, 3” x 8.3’ W/Cuffs
N) Wand .1.25” OD (2)
O) Crevice Tool 1.25”
P) Upholstery Tool 1.25”
Q) Floor Tool 1.25”
R) Upholstery Brush 1.25”
S) Wand 1.25” OD (1)
T) Adapter, 3” to 2” Hose Cuff (Fits the 1-1/2 and 2” Cuffs on Red or Blue Hose, and Grey vacuum hose with tools.

UNIVERSAL Remote:
The Handheld Remote Controls the Brush Motor.
G) The Red Button at the TOP Turns the Brush Motor ON with the First Press, while pressing it again turns the Brush Motor OFF.
H) The 2 Buttons just below the RED button are Marked FWD / REV, and either one will Change the direction of the Brush Rotation when pressed while the Motor is Running.
I) The other buttons are reserved for any new features that may be added in the future.

4) Use the vacuum motor switches on the panel to select the motors you want to use to vacuum the ducts: 1, 2, 3 or all 4 motors can be used at one time. The motors can be turned on and off with these switches.

5) The Wireless, Handheld Universal Remote uses an Infrared Light beam like a Television Remote. The operator must be in sight of the front of the DuctMaster where the Remote Receivers are located for it to operate. The operator can be across the room or up on a ladder and the remote will function if there are no obstructions between the operator and the sensor on the DuctMaster Panel. The remote will NOT work between rooms.

6) Once the technician inserts the brush into the duct, use the wireless remote control to turn on the brush motor.

7) The technician will push the brush and hose into the duct until it cannot be pushed any farther, then press the FWD/REV button on the wireless remote to “reverse” the brush rotation to allow it to go deeper into the ducts. The brush can now be pulled back to the return opening while still running.

8) Stop the Brush before removing it from the duct. Do not remove the brush while it is operating.

• Repeat this process for every supply and return duct.

• Where you have long ducts, such as larger main trunk lines without access doors or a removable End Cap, the technician must make “cut- ins”, to access the entire length of the duct. Many local governments require a contractor’s licenses for technicians making cut ins. The access holes must be properly sealed with a metal plate and screws and the original insulation replaced in the hole.

• After cleaning each duct, each opening should then be decontaminated with Envirocon, an EPA registered sanitizer, Soot Set sealer and Liquid Odor Kill air freshener. The Air-Care Foggers are ideal for this.

1) With the dryer running, clip the outside flap “OPEN” and check the airflow at the exhaust with a flow meter. Write down the reading for comparison after cleaning. (Illustration is a cutaway)
CAUTION: If you cannot locate where the air exhausts outside then you cannot guarantee your work and probably should not try to clean it. Refer the customer to their contractor.

2) Turn off the dryer, remove power, then move it away from the wall and disconnect the exhaust tubing. If it is a gas dryer, be careful to not damage or break the gas line.

3) Attach the 3” diameter DuctMaster vacuum hose to the end of the exhaust duct (inside or outside, depending on configuration).

4) Place the drill in the Air-Care drill holder and secure with the included straps. Use the 20’ drill powered dryer duct cable with 4” dryer duct brush. Insert the drive end of the cable into the chuck of your Electric Drill. A low speed (300-500RPM), 3/8” chuck is best suited.

5) Plug the drill into the foot pedal switch (A) and plug the pedal cord into the wall (B). Press the Drill’s Trigger and lock it in the “ON” position. It will only run when the foot pedal is pressed. The pedal leaves both hands free.

NOTE: Avoid Sharp Bends in the Cable, it will eventually result in a broken core.

6) Turn on the vacuum motors in the Air-Care DuctMaster then insert the 4” brush into the dryer vent. The Drill will not run unless BOTH the Trigger Switch in the Drill Handle and the Foot Pedal are Turned ON, Start the drill using the foot pedal only AFTER the brush has been inserted into the duct.

7) If you experience resistance to the brush, the cable may “Twist Up” on you. If so, STOP the drill. Try reversing the rotation and go slowly until you get past the restriction. If the Drill has a torque limiting setting on the Chuck, it can be set to a lower torque to reduce cable twist up.

8) A slow steady insertion is ideal, but you may need to pull the cable out a few inches and push it rapidly back to get around some obstructions and elbows.

9) If the cable cannot be pushed all the way to the end of the duct, it may be necessary to also insert the cable and brush from the other end of the duct.

10) If there is visible lint clog or bird nest, the Nest Claw tool may be needed to break it up. Attach the nest claw tool to the cable with a setscrew, which is the same way the 4” dryer duct brush attaches. CAUTION: The Nest Claw can be very aggressive and may damage flexible ducts.

11) If you only have access to one end of the exhaust duct, use the “Y” adapter to allow the vacuum and the cable to be inserted from the same end of the exhaust duct.

12) Once the duct has been cleaned, the dryer should also be cleaned.

13) Remove the back cover of the dryer and clean out the lint on the internal components. Usually 4-8 screws are used to mount the back cover. Access to the interior of the dryer will vary with model, be careful to not damage it.

14) Once the duct and dryer are clean, connect the dryer to the wall opening with aluminum hose. (The Consumer Product Safety Commission does NOT recommend plastic connector hoses, nor does any major dryer manufacturer).

15) Turn the dryer on and again check the airflow outside. Typically, over 1000 fpm (feet per minute) (1000 fpm = 5 mps [meters per second]) is good, and less than 1000 fpm is usually not. Continue cleaning until you have reached airflow over 1000 fpm. If 1,000 fpm cannot be obtained, the duct may be damaged and require a contractor to correct the problem.

16) Clean up any lint around the outside of the dryer, clean the exterior of the dryer and if you have a sticker or magnet with your company name, date it for a follow-up cleaning in 12 months.

SYMPTOM: Low or no vacuum suction.
POSSIBLE CAUSES:
1. Filters are clogged.
2. Gaskets leaking.
3. One or more motors are not running.
4. The hose is clogged.
SUGGESTED ACTIONS:
• Replace the dual stage, 15-gallon vacuum bag filter.
• Clean the 3rd stage electra silver pre-filter.
• Clean or replace the 4th stage HEPA filter.
• Inspect the door gaskets and base of the HEPA for leaks
• Run one motor at a time to determine which one is not running.
• Remove the hose and check for vacuum then reverse the hose to suck out clogged debris if vacuum is ok. If there is still no vacuum, call Air-Care.

 

SYMPTOM: Circuit breaker in building trips.
POSSIBLE CAUSES:
1. Both power cords are plugged into the same circuit.
SUGGESTED ACTIONS:
• Check test light on panel, if it does not light, only use 2 motors.
• Find a second independent electrical circuit for the second power cord.

 

SYMPTOM: Excessive Noise
POSSIBLE CAUSES:
1. White check valve located in the Air-Care DuctMaster cabinet is installed upside down (air flowarrow should point up).
2. One or more motors are bad.
SUGGESTED ACTIONS:
• Remove check valve and install in proper direction.
• Turn on one motor at a time to determine which one is bad, and then call Air-Care for a new motor. Only a trained technician
should replace a motor.

 

SYMPTOM: Remote does not operate brush
POSSIBLE CAUSES:
1. Be sure Handheld Remote is pointed at the Remote Receiver sensor on the top of the case.
2. Check that the Red indicator on the Handheld remote flashes (Once) when The RED Power Button or when the either of the FWD/REV Buttons are pushed. The Other buttons may not flash, that is normal.
3. Is Power Cord #1 Plugged in to a good power outlet?
SUGGESTED ACTIONS:
• Locate the DuctMaster so the remote has an unobstructed view of the sensors.
• If the red LED does not flash, replace the battery in the remote.
• The remote module is powered by Power Cord #1, plug it into a known good outlet

 

SYMPTOM: Brush & hose cannot be inserted far enough
POSSIBLE CAUSES:
1. Duct is too small for hose (Less than 2” wide opening).
2. Duct makes two 90° turns in less than 12 inches.
SUGGESTED ACTIONS:
• Be sure you are using the 1 ½” X 35’ Hose, Brush and Motor Assembly
• Try to access the duct from another opening.

 

SYMPTOM: Brush motor does not turn
POSSIBLE CAUSES:
1. Electronic Torque control shut down brush motor power.
2. There was a power loss in the building or a power surge.
3. Motor Connectors have come loose.
4. NEW High Lift Brush used in older unit without 2-Speed Motor or New machine set to LOW
SUGGESTED ACTIONS:
• Unplug Power Cords for 30 seconds, and then plug in Power Cords again
• Be sure the Brush Switch on the Panel is OFF. Try using the handheld remote again.
• Be sure Brush Power Cable is fully inserted into the Connector on the front of the DuctMaster
• Use Brush with thinner bristles or Be sure that the Motor Panel Switch is on HI.

 

SYMPTOM: There are holes in the red vacuum hose.
POSSIBLE CAUSES:
1. The “crush proof” hose is very durable, but if it is pulled excessively hard, it can separate at the grooves.
SUGGESTED ACTIONS:
• Call Air-Care for an RMA to have the cable housing repaired or replaced.

Turn off all the VAC motors and unplug the Air-Care DuctMaster.

Carefully remove the bag filter through the door and dispose of it properly in accordance with any local state or federal regulations applicable.

If there is noticeable debris build up on the electra-silver pre-filter above the HEPA filter, push it to the rear and lift it off and clean it. It can be rinsed with water or sprayed with Dynamite cleaner and rinsed, but it must be DRY before reinstalling it into the Vacuum Unit.

To remove the HEPA , release the top latch and both side latches and lift the vacuum tank off the base.

Lift the HEPA out and inspect it for damage or clogging. Inspect the gasket under the HEPA . The HEPA cannot not be cleaned without damaging it. Install a new HEPA filter, by placing it into the base with the airflow arrow pointing down.

Install a new dual stage bag filter following the instructions on the bag. It collects heavy debris in the bottom section of the bag and lighter debris in the top section.

With the addition of the higher power Brush Motor with HI and LOW Switch (On Panel Only), the Standard Brush is the Firmer 12” Pancake Brush .045” dia. Bristles, which is disposable and can be purchased singly or in a 5 Pack. It can be used in the LOW Speed mode for Internally insulated and older Flex ducts, but always inspect the duct for brittleness or flaking insulation before cleaning. If your machine only has a single speed, these ducts should only be cleaned with the softer 12” brush (.021” Dia. Bristle) Disposable Pancake Brush. The “Pancake-Style” hubs allow either brush to negotiate sharp turns in smaller air ducts and are even more nimble with the slightly shorter new motor.

The New, Firm version of the brush floats higher in the duct, especially on the “HI” setting of the Panel Switch. It will function in older ducts with the “LO” Setting just as the original 12” .021” Bristle version does.

The 2”, BLUE Vacuum Hose and motor now have an 18” brush with .045” dia Bristles in the traditional Disposable Pancake Hub. The stiffer bristles raise the brush higher in the duct, especially when the Panel Switch is in “HI” setting. The Aluminum hub 18” Brush with .032” dia. Bristles is now optional.

The 12” Brushes will work on the 2” (Blue) hose.
While the New 18” Brush will fit on the 1.5” hose, there are some situations where the 18” brush may not start properly with the Original Single Speed Motor.

This new version of the Brush Motor and Mount retains all the advantages of the original and includes some improvements to reliability, durability, and Debris Collection. It has more POWER so the New DuctMasters have a 2 position Switch for HI and Low.

Installing a new motor in a DuctMaster without the Hi/Lo switch could run the FIRM brush fast enough to cause damage to older ducts. If in Doubt about the Ducts condition, use the SOFT 12” Brush with the smaller, .021” Bristles. Contact Air Care for questions about using the Newer Motor on existing DuctMasters or TruckMasters. 702-454-5515.

The Hoses, Motor and electrical Connections for the new version will fit previous DuctMaster Models.

KEEP THE NEW MOTOR FULLY ASSEMBLED!

First remove the OLD motor and mount from your hose:

1. Remove the screws holding the Motor Mount collar on the end of the hose and save the screws and nuts to mount the new motor and mount. One screw also secures the internal stiffener to the interior of the hose. (Some stiffeners are Steel, and some are Fiberglass)
2. Cut the 3 wires for the motor leaving enough cord to crimp (or solder) the wires to the new motor wires. All 3 wires will need to be the same length for this new Motor Connection.
3. You will no longer need any of the parts in the original motor assembly unless you are returning it to Air-Care with an RMA for warranty evaluation.

Installing the NEW Motor Assembly.

1. Be sure you have all the parts for the installation:

• Your original Screws, 10-32 x 5/8” long machine screws,
• 10-32 Hex Nuts with built in Lock Washers.
• Metal or Fiberglass Stiffener (if it was on the original hose)

2. Remove the outer insulation from the black power cord in the hose to expose the 3 insulated motor wires about 2 inches long.
3. Strip the insulation from all 3 wires about ½” back from the ends.
4. Slide the larger black Shrink Tubing over the cable. It will slide over the new connections after the wires are connected.
5. Slide the 3 pieces of smaller shrink tubing over each of the motor wires. The connections can be made by Crimping the new connectors or soldering them. If you are planning to solder the connections, be sure the blue shrink tubing is far enough away from the heated ends to prevent it from shrinking prematurely from the heat of soldering.
6. The wires may be different colors from the Motor than the ones from the hose cable. The order is not important, the brush will operate with any combination of wires, but it may turn in the opposite direction in some cases but will still change directions as before.
7. Each of the 3 wires from the hose can now be inserted into the Crimp connectors on the new motor. Try to twist the wires tight enough so that all the strands go into the silver connector, then crimp it with a crimping tool. Alternately, the wires can be soldered, if so, be sure they are heated to a point where the solder flows into all the strands and into the silver connector. The Motor is a low voltage, HIGH AMP device and a poor connection will result in faulty performance.
8. Slide the Blue shrink tubing over the metal connector; Heat the tubing to shrink it in place. A hair dryer, heat gun or even a cigarette lighter can be used. Be careful to not burn yourself, the plastic hose or heat the other shrink tubing at this time.
9. Connect the other 2 wires following the same procedure.
10. When all 3 wires are connected and insulated, slide the larger black shrink tubing over them and as far towards the motor as possible. Heat this shrink tubing to shrink it on to the wires.
11. Next, slip the Nylon Loop Strap over the wires. This will guide the wires. The Loop Strap will be held in place with one of the 10-32 x 5/8” screws used to hold the black nozzle on the hose.
12. Insert the screws into the mounting holes in the Nozzle and thread the screws into the original holes in the hose if possible. If this is difficult, you may need to drill new holes in the hose using the 2 holes in the Black Nozzle as a guide. Use a 3/16” diameter drill.
13. When the screws are in place, place the loop strap hole over one of the screws and install one of the nuts then tighten the screw with a screwdriver. It may be necessary to use a screwdriver to thread the screws through the loop strap.
14. If your hose has a stiffener, install its loop over the other screw, install the nut and tighten it. If there is no stiffener, just install the nut and tighten the screws.
15. Your repair and upgrade are now complete and ready to test. If you have any questions, please call Air-Care Tech Support, 800-322-9919.